A tale of three villages

November 10th, 2000

From Mostar to Stolac is only 30 kilometres but it seems much longer. You head
south from Mostar following the river valley, then turn abruptly upwards into
the mountains. Here you find a strange, desolate landscape of grey granite and
dead twisted trees. Clusters of houses in various stages of destruction or repair
line the road; most fly the distinctive blue and red Croatian flag. In the distance,
are further clusters of villages - many also half destroyed and deserted. It is
only when the road descends to Stolac that you glimpse the fertile river valley
that produces the best tobacco in Bosnia.
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